World Heritage Sites are locations of "outstanding universal value"' chosen by UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation). The Dorset and East Devon Coast forms one of England's World Heritage Sites. Called The Jurassic Coast, this area comprises 95 miles of truly beautiful coastline from East Devon to Dorset. The time span of the rocks along this coast covers a period of 185 million years of the Earth's history.
World Heritage status was granted because the coast offers a unique insight into a geological "time line" spanning the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods of the Earth's history. Very distinct and different sections of coast formed over millions of years through geological events and later by coastal processes unfold before your eyes as you walk through this beautiful area.
Orcombe Point marks the west edge of the World Heritage Site, and you can start your journey by seeing the Geoneedle, unveiled by the Prince of Wales in 2002 to commemorate granting of World Heritage Status to the Devon and East Dorset coast. The Geoneedle is built from stones taken from the coast in the sequence in which the rocks were deposited along the coast during its development.
The rocks of this area show us the period known as the Mesozoic era - which is broken down into the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods of the Earth's history. These represent the period from 250 million years ago to 65 million years ago. Right along the coast, this truly amazing geology is very clearly exposed and very easily accessible.
In Triassic times, which were between 250 and 200 million years ago, the World Heritage Site was an element of the super-continent called Pangaea, a landmass which later divided into the continents of our current world. Dorset and East Devon was somewhere in the desert-like, dry centre of this unimaginable super-continent. The Triassic was a vital time in the evolution of life on Earth. Those sea-going animals which were able to survive a mass extinction at the end of the previous geological period evolved and developed; for example, the dinosaurs evolved around this time and later became dominant during the Mesozoic Era. As the Triassic period was drawing to a close, most of the four legged animals which we know today, or their ancestors, had evolved.
Pangaea started to split up during the Jurassic Period between 200 and 140 million years ago. The Atlantic Ocean formed to the west of Britain and the Americas moved away from Europe. The Earth was warm and sea levels were high, with almost no polar ice caps. The Jurassic rocks of East Devon and Dorset record these marine conditions - although the depth of the oceans varied from relatively deep seas to coastal swamps. The geology of this area indicates that sea levels rose and fell in cycles, with the deposition of deep water clays, then sandstones and last of all shallow water limestones. The oceans were relatively shallow in the middle of the Jurassic, which created a series of islands raised slightly above the shallow shoals, rather like the Caribbean of today. The oceans deepened as the Jurassic time period progressed, though they again became shallower at the end of the Jurassic. This change created a tropical-type swamp environment. Though you may find that hard to believe right now!
Jurassic animals included Ammonites, a type of mollusc related to the squid, but with hard spiral shells. These are one of the most common fossils you can find on the Dorset and East Devon Coast; and in fact, Portland and its limestone and chalk is where the giant ammonite is found. As the shallow seas expanded, there was an explosion of life during which many animals evolved rapidly. Dinosaurs were abundant on Earth and the dominant animals in the oceans included ichthyosaurs, plesiosaurs and crocodiles.
During the Cretaceous Period, which extended from 140 to 65 million years ago, America continued to drift away from Europe, and the Atlantic became more like it is today in form. The landscape on our current World Heritage Site was rather like the Gulf of Arabia today, with lagoons and salt flats. As the rocks under what is now south-west England tilted to the East, the warm waters of the Atlantic expanded, and sea conditions became more hospitable, allowing billions of microscopic algae to bloom in the clear waters. As their exo-skeletons sank to the sea floor, they gradually formed the pure, white chalk we see in the area today.
Right across the World Heritage Site you can see the "Great Unconformity", a time gap between rocks of different ages. In the mid-Cretaceous the rocks tilted eastwards, and were then gradually eroded by seas and rivers, especially in the west of the area. As a result, all the Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous rocks are absent from the timeline in this "fault", and the Upper Cretaceous rocks lie upon on the eroded rock surfaces of the Triassic. As you walk along the coast, this makes interpretation of the time line more difficult, because the oldest and the youngest rocks on the coast are found near each other in East Devon.
The Cretaceous saw the largest and most fearsome dinosaurs on the Earth, but it was also the period when the first flowering plants evolved. A mass extinction took place at the end of the Cretaceous period which was critical to the form and animal population of the modern world (although this is not explicitly recorded in the World Heritage Site). Certainly it was around this time that the reign of the reptiles - including dinosaurs - as the predominant life on Earth came to an end; dinosaurs, marine reptiles and ammonites were some of the species which became extinct. After their time, the present style of life on Earth evolved, dominated by mammals, flowering plants and grasses. The earliest Cretaceous rocks in the World Heritage time line are the Purbeck Beds, which form one of the most complex rock sequences along the entire coast. They have given us many fossils including dinosaur footprints and the microscopic animal teeth. Chalk - calcium carbonate - is the youngest Cretaceous rock in the Heritage area of the Devon and Dorset coast - it is located all through the area, and usually has millions of fossils of animals such as the sea urchin. All in all, the varied geology of this beautiful coast has formed an amazing laboratory for geomorphology - the study of the land and the geological processes that created it. Coastal land is never stable; it changes as the sea and frost mould it, as rain and human activity subtly alters it. But geomorphology is looking at longer time periods than that which represents the hand of man, even though small changes, repeated often enough over long periods of time, can be powerful agents for change as well. As we all know, storms and landslips have both formed the shape of the coast and revealed millions of fossils, which are abundant and easy to find in this astonishing natural laboratory of geomorphology!
By Rod Booth
No comments:
Post a Comment